TAG Restaurant

Continental – a culinary journey inspired by the global table
Social – designed for sharing with your travel companions
Food – fresh local ingredients, refreshingly original preparations

Continental Social Food

TAG located in Larimer Square is the latest restaurant from Troy Guard. The cuisine, you ask…..why it’s continental, social, food; and it’s good. Sitting at the bar I ordered my favorite item on the TAG menu – fresh seared australian hiramasa with yuzu, jalapeno, pop rocks and myoga salad. I can’t not order this at TAG. The fish is fresh, the yuzu and jalapeno complete the balance of the dish and the pop rocks create a sensation I haven’t had in my mouth since junior high. This is what’s so fun about TAG. Not only will you find fresh fish, beautifully butchered and prepared but you will also find Kobe roasted beef sliders with duck fat fries, roasted wagyu bone marrow with quince, pear and ciabatta, duck confit sope cakes with ancho tomatillo, salsa, black bean puree and grilled squash.

Yes, I said duck fat fries.

Just when I was satiated Troy brought out a dish he was testing – Foie Gras torchon with li hing mui pineapple marmalade, levain bread, balsamic miso syrup and maldeon sea salt. TAG is most definitely continental, social food. According to Troy “it’s not a cuisine, it’s a challenge — to sample and share with your friends a novel experience that pushes the boundaries of your expectations. Go ahead, no great breakthrough ever comes without risk.” Troy is right, and did I mention that it’s good? Really, really good.

My Culinary Recap of 2009

Wow! What a whirlwind of calories, wine and cocktails I have had the honor of savoring in 2009.

A Few of My Favorites...

I have to say this masterpiece of halibut poached in tomato confit with lobster from Opus' Michael Long is one of my favorites.

This off the menu creation was probably one of the best meals I've ever enjoyed - and I've eaten at a lot great restaurants - I have the credit card bills to prove it.

Opus is a restaurant in downtown Littleton that has to fight for the spotlight it so deserves.

The list of my favorite Denver restaurants go on; Fruition's chef/owner Alex Seidel leads an extremely talented team of chefs; Blake, Jimmy, Matt, Kona, Josh, to name a few. Alex is often referred to as a perfectionist and the food loving public definitely comes out the winner with his take on comfort classics. I'm not so patiently waiting for the sheep's milk cheese he is going to produce with the purchase of his farm.

Matt Selby of Vesta Dipping Grill & Steuben's continuously steers his chefs Wade Kirwan & Brandon Biderman, respectively, to consistently great food - the ribs at Steuben's - delish! Not to mention that Matt is very generous with his time to charity, as you constantly see Vesta & Steuben's participating in charity events.

One place I always love to go to is Z Cuisine. This restaurant and absinthe bar always transports me to another place where time doesn't matter. Owner Patrick Dupays and executive chef Pete Ryan put out the best french country fare in the city.

I love new comer's Colt & Gray, Sketch Wine Bar and the newest kid to the block is Sushi Den's third venture - Den Deli. The list goes on and on and this blog post would be 20 pages long if I mentioned all of my favorite restaurants.

And what about the gourmet markets? There are some great markets in Denver with more opening every quarter it seems. Take Wen Chocolates, Savory Spice and one of Denver's newest spots, EVOO Marketplace. We are blessed with Ed & Kristi Janos' Cook's Fresh Market.

We have people who move here to follow their food passion, we have magazines dedicated to food, Edible Frontrange, ethnic markets, like Jerusalem Market (that's me pictured with Faraj), that offer a trip to another land just by walking into the store.

Colorado has about 8% of the country's Master Sommelier's, James Beard winner's, chef's who are published in national magazines like Bon Appetit and Certified Master Chefs.

Colorado is so much more than the Rocky Mountains, the sports teams and skiing; we have a great culinary scene and it's only growing. So, my fellow food lovers, thank you for a great year of exploring the many great culinary places Colorado has to offer.

Home, Home on the (Chocolate) Range

What do you get when you cross a horse farrier and an amazing chocolatier? That’s easy, Wen Chocolates. Wen Chocolates has been on 15^th & Platte for two years now but Chef William Poole, head confectioner, started Wen long before the store was opened. He and his Savannah truffle were featured on the Dean Brothers, “Road Tested” three years ago and from there the store was opened and Denver’s own started shipping chocolates around the world.

William Poole grew up just outside of Omaha, Nebraska being heavily influenced by his family. His love of cooking started with his grandfather. “When I was about four years old I used to, not ask, but demand a chair so I could stand beside my grandpa to see what he was making,” Poole says remembering the breads and cookies his grandfather would make.

His love for horses also came from growing up near his family’s farms. In addition to being a chef he is also a certified farrier, which means, he is qualified to fit your horse with shoes. His love for animals doesn’t stop there but continues with a desire to have a ranch, complete with livestock. And, so he can continue to follow both passions; horses and cooking, he plans to open his home to friends and family and teach them how to cook in a simple manner, to be inspired and build their confidence in the kitchen.

Wen Chocolates is not Poole’s first venture into a food or hospitality business. He and his partner, Loren, owned and ran Bywater Guest House in New Orleans as well as a coffee shop in Milwaukee called Bear Brew Coffee. At each place they would cook and take care of all of the details. Chef Poole made his way to Denver and worked with Chef Michael Long of Opus in Littleton before going to culinary school at the Art Institute. Chef William left school mid-term to pursue a pastry job on the Orient Express Railways.

His time on the Orient Express proved to be a very fortuitous. In 2003 he was offered the chance by Emil Gaspari to cook in Slovenia. Given Chef Poole’s eastern European heritage, it was like going home. He did everything from plating and serving to cooking and cleaning. “In addition to my given tasks, I had the opportunity to teach classes on American standards of dessert plating, components, breads & pastry.” Poole said. He has cooked birthday cakes and dinner for the former and current presidents of the Republic. Chef Poole is slated to head back over to Slovenia to teach students confectionary at Hospitality School in Maribor, Slovenia; a school that coaches students to compete in the Georges Baptiste award for European Culinary Excellence.

When asked who he would love to sit down and talk with he was quick to reply MFK Fisher & John Muir as well as Julia Child (of course) and surprisingly Phyllis Diller; just 20 minutes and bourbon would do fine. You get the sense that from his choices Chef Poole respects history and people who pull make something for themselves, who go after their passion and are happy with their success.

Poole readily admits he has been greatly influenced by his family. His aunt and uncle for their entrepreneurial spirit, his parents and growing up in a middle class family and his other aunt who had a rural farm with horses and livestock. All of these factors helped define who Chef Poole is today.

“I know I made something good when the smells remind me of my childhood”, Poole said. It goes hand in hand with what he thinks the next food trend will be; comfort food. The smells and flavors take us back to an easier time of being a kid and food makes that connection. This is driven home by one of William’s favorite meals, steak and eggs maybe with a salad of lardoons.

It is comforting to know that Denverites are blessed to have such a talent in our own back yard. If you haven’t had a truffle from Wen Chocolates, do yourself a favor and head down there, just don’t go on a Monday or Tuesday as they are closed. You will taste the love and passion in each one of his truffles and that is what keeps people coming back.

Fun Facts:

Three things you always have in your refrigerator:

Beer, anchovies and carrots

What is something most people don’t know about you:

I’m a certified farrier

I married my partner, Loren last month and I studied ballet in high school

I was given the certificate of Contributions to Slovenian Culinary for my work there

Place you’ve always wanted to visit:

Istanbul, Turkey because of the history and the food

Yea! for Seafood - Fresh Seafood

Don't think you can get fresh fish in Denver? Not true, most fish hits DIA within 24 - 36 hours. Granted, it's not off the hook caught fresh, but, ask around the next time your in a city by the sea, unless they are sitting on the beach, your fish is not going to be minutes old either.

Finally! A seafood market owned by someone who LOVES seafood - a former sushi chef.

Chad Wells, formerly of Tommy Tsunami's, has opened a quaint little seafood market in Curtis Park that he has been dreaming of for years. His market focuses on sustainable, fresh fish & seafood. He also offers house made salmon patties, seaweed squid salad straight from Japan (very tasty!) and sushi Tuesdays where you can walk in and pick up some amazing fish for dinner and and pop a few little morsels of love in your mouth.

If there is something special you are looking for, just give Chad a call and he can get it in for you. Given his many years in a sushi restaurant, he can give you some great tips on how to properly prepare your fish and what flavors go well with it.

Wells has taken this sleepy little shop and turned it into a wonderful little market. No need to roam aimlessly around Denver looking for fresh, quality fish; you can find it at Well's Seafood.

2532 Champa St
Denver, CO 80205
(303) 459-4229

From Italy with Love

What do coconut popsicles, Partagais and cherries have in common? These are all things chef/owner Andrea Frizzi of iL Posto love. Simple food and a good cigar.

Sitting down with Chef Frizzi gives you the feeling of being in Italy when he talks about what fuels his passion for food. One thing you can count on with the simple, Italian fare he delivers night after night is that it comes from his heart balanced by the history of learning about food as a young boy in his family’s salumeria while growing up in Italy.

Andrea didn’t choose to go to cooking school, which he attended as a teenager, it was a family decision and one Frizzi does not regret. He has cooked for queens, presidents and prime ministers. He went to art school for culinary design so he could learn how to create ice and jello sculptures. This is a man who takes his craft very seriously.

Taking your craft seriously and loving it are two different things. Andrea takes his passion for food to a level most people in any career would be lucky to have. When asked what it is about food that drives him his reply is simple: memories. Food reminds him of moments that he had in this past with his family. When he eats, it’s an emotional journey and for this reason he prefers to eat at home with his wife Tara.

Andrea came to the United States in 1993 via Washington D.C. as an executive chef for Bice Restaurants. During his two year tenure with them he was voted Best Young chef by Williams Sonoma and Best Young Chef in D.C.

After Bice Restaurants Frizzi started Restaurant, Inc., a restaurant consulting company where he opened more than 20 restaurants in the D.C. and New York City markets. “Consulting was fun but it wasn’t my own game”, Frizzi says.

He came to Denver to consult on a restaurant and fell in love with it. As an avid fly fisherman he knew he would fit in and the people were great. He quickly made friends here and saw opportunity in this growing city. These factors made him stay and he has no plans of moving back to Italy.

He would like to see Denver add more independent restaurants, bakeries and pastry shops (did you hear that Deanna Parker? – he likes gelato too) and for the community to focus more on locally raised food.

When asked who he would like to meet, the list is (quite) distinguished and admirable; the Dalai Lama for his calmness, Jacques Pepin for his technique, Carlo Montizamo, President of Ferrari, for his inspiring vision and Mario Batali for raising the profile of Italian food way past spaghetti and meatballs.

What makes a great chef in Andrea’s eyes? It goes back to simplicity; commitment, uncompromising attention to details and humility.

Chef Andrea, you are well on your way and Denver is lucky to have you, your commitment to your food memories and your food.

Ciao.

EVOO Marketplace

Is it any wonder that when you walk into Mick Major's new shop, EVOO Marketplace, you want to taste everything. The beautiful stainless steel fusties protect & hold the olive oil and balsamic vinegars from around the world.

Like most food lovers, Mick decided to follow his passion and opened the store after a long career in commercial printing. When you go Mick will walk you around the store giving you information on the fusties, the oils and vinegars. He'll walk you through how to taste, different oil and vinegar combinations and he'll also encourage you to create your own. A favorite seems to be the meyer lemon olive oil and white peach balsamic vinegar, alone or together.

This is a wonderful way to spend an hour, just tasting, experimenting and dreaming of the different dishes you could create with a world of olive oils and vinegars at your fingertips.

EVOO Marketplace is located on the corner of 15th and Market, 1338 Market Street Denver, CO 80202, 303-974-5484.

August Featured Chef - Alex Seidel

Alex Seidel

From a boy who grew up in Wisconsin to the man who is the chef/owner of one of the west’s best restaurants comes food fit for kings and journeymen alike. Alex Seidel of Fruition is a simple and hard working restaurateur that expertly delivers elevated comfort food. His easy going manner and mid-western work ethic has garnered him two nominations from the James Beard Foundation for one of America’s top chefs. However, Alex is the first to point out that he hasn’t achieved his success alone; his team of talented sous chefs, wait staff and business partner Paul Attardi all play a role in the success Fruition enjoys.

Seidel didn’t grow up wanting to be a chef; he actually went to college at the University of Wisconsin – Milwaukee, as a walk on for the soccer team. He tried his hand at many different majors; pre-med, physics and political science, before choosing to forgo traditional college and enter Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon (which has been purchased by Le Cordon Bleu).

After graduating from Western Culinary Institute Alex moved on to Monterey, California to start working in his new profession. It was the commitment of Oregon and California to locally grown food that has influenced Alex’s cooking the most. Although California proved to be a great training ground it was time to move on to the Vail Valley to work at the acclaimed restaurant, Sweet Basil.

Sweet Basil’s Executive Chef, Bruce Yim, was a huge influence on Seidel. "Bruce taught me a lot about technique and the importance of quality", Alex said. But Seidel didn’t stop there about one of his mentors, "He also taught me how to effectively manage a team and a kitchen." Alex’s numerous years of playing on a soccer team and Yim’s philosophy of "we’re a team and we have a goal" have worked extremely well for Alex and Fruition. This is evidenced by the fact that Fruition has very little turn over in their kitchen and front of the house staff. This shared attitude and management philosophy are big reasons why the consistency and quality of the food and service stays as high as it does.

After Sweet Basil Seidel followed a girl (who would later become his wife) and moved to Denver where he soon found himself working for Frank Bonano at Mizuna. At Mizuna Alex quickly worked his way up the ranks from sous chef to executive chef where one of his responsibility was creating the menus with Frank. Working for Frank would have far reaching affect on Alex even he didn’t realize when he started there. It was at Mizuna that Alex and Paul Attardi met.

Paul and Alex became business partners just over three years ago when Alex called Paul, who was living in the Outer Banks of North Carolina at the time, to persuade him to come back to Denver and open a small restaurant with him. It didn’t take a lot of convincing for this sommelier and front of the house master to pack his belongings and move back to the Centennial State.

When asked what his biggest career accomplishment as a chef has been Alex points to being able to take his entire staff to where his culinary career began. "I was able to pass on information & knowledge about the food and wine of Orgeon, having them experience that as a group & being the leader was a huge accomplishment for me."

Alex also pays homage to some other great chefs in the Mile High City citing Selby, Bonano, Sorenson and Wiard for their contribution to the exploding dining scene in the Denver. He’s watched as they’ve improved their restaurants and skills. "Our dining scene continues to evolve and attract better chefs from other parts of the country. Alex also went on to say, "our dining scene will take care of itself; it’s the diverse community of chefs that raises the quality of the restaurants."

Alex has definitely made an impression on the Denver dining scene and soon will be making one on the farm to table scene with his recent purchase of an organic farm in Larkspur. His intent is to provide the restaurant with produce and in the not too distant future possible cheese. Knowing Alex, his cheese, like his restaurant, will be outstanding.